| Chef Donald Reeves of Vandelay Café |
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Executive Chef, Donald Reeves remembers being particular about food from an early age. Food had to be delectable both in taste and presentation. Luckily, his perfectionism has carried over into adulthood, as he truly aspires to perfect everything that comes out of his kitchen at the Vandelay Café. Growing up in Union County, he would wait until his parents left the house to turn the kitchen into his private culinary lab, concocting soups and entrees. An Aunt, who was a proficient home baker of everything from cakes to bagels, welcomed him into her kitchen, where he would assist her in the process. Through high school Reeves worked in the back of the house of various food establishments, graduating from dishwasher, to the grill, to sauté chef. Originally heading to college in search of a non-culinary degree, Reeves changed his course of study and location when his aspirations to become a chef took over. He attended the Culinary Institute of America, where he soon realized he was totally within his comfort zone, working side by side with hopeful chefs like himself. From soups to sauces to stocks, Reeves and his contemporaries - elbow deep in pots, pans and the grueling study of kitchen science- learned classical cuisine and technique. While a student, Reeves did an intensive six-month externship in Whitehouse, New Jersey at The Ryland Inn, under the stewardship of famed chef, Craig Shelton. After earning his degree, he returned - sharpening his skills, learning the fundamentals hands-on, and climbing the rungs of the culinary ladder. There, he was taught the chemistry of food, "from cutting chives, to roasting bones, to making stock." After two years of invaluable experience, he went on to engineer the opening of Pierre's in Morristown. Reeves was then recruited to The Stage House Inn, located in Scotch Plains, which was owned at that time by celebrated Chef David Drake. There, Reeves refined his plating and design methods. He later became Executive Chef at The Metuchen Inn for nine years. During his tenure there, he met restaurant owner, James Lorenzo, who opened the Vandelay Café in Red Bank. Looking for a "clean change" from fine dining, Reeves came on board as Executive Chef in August of 2005. Although Reeves changed his personal menu direction from "fine dining" to "foods your mother or grandmother would make", he certainly has not changed the direction of his classical training. From the wafting scents of stock simmering in the unique, middle-of-the-restaurant kitchen space, ones' senses immediately perceive the aura of down-home goodness. And don't be fooled; he applies the same intensity whether there is foie gras on the menu or handmade-to-order chicken fingers for the kiddies. Everything is made from scratch, from soup to dessert; even the mayonnaise used during lunch service. The menu changes frequently, usually every four weeks, but always features six (!) soups, various salads and daily selections, reflective of the clientele's desires. Although there are traditional menu items to please all palates, each is refined with Reeves' personal touch. These include Slow-braised Short Ribs of Beef, Penne Pecorino with seared shrimp, scallops, fresh tomatoes, spinach and roasted garlic, and Pan-seared Chicken and Shrimp in a tomato-brandy cream sauce. All sauces are delicately prepared to order, using time-honored, French preparation methods. The cooking area serves as a centerpiece, adding to the decor of exposed brick, intimate seating, and original artwork by local artist Neil Loeb. Complimenting the dining area is Hostess Lisa, who, with assistant Chefs Aaron and Raphael, are part of the team approach Chef Reeves uses to create a welcoming atmosphere for his dining guests and staff. Lorenzo completes the mood, chatting with the "regulars" and making new friends with first-comers. And where did the name come from? Lorenzo, being a Seinfeld-buff, named it after episode 34 of the popular, award-winning and long-running sitcom. (Vandelay Industries, was the fictional latex company George Costanza (Jason Alexander) made up when seeking unemployment insurance). With Chef Donald Reeves on board, Vandelay Café should have a long run too. |
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