Each year, winter holidays seem to creep up earlier than the previous season.  Retail stores are piping holiday music overhead even before the pumpkins of Halloween turn into jack’o lanterns for a night of mischief or trick-or-treating.  Thanksgiving, my own personal favorite, is the one exception to this phenomenon. I think it’s due to the significance of the meaning behind the holiday: Here is a holiday without gift-giving, fanfare, religious connotations or resolutions; a holiday where yes, we share a lot of food, but where we mostly share ourselves.  Whether at the table, in the kitchen, or perhaps serving others at a soup kitchen, the soul and the palate are equally nourished: However busy we are, we all set aside a bit of time to count our blessings, and quietly enjoy our family togetherness before the storm of the “big” holiday festivities takeover.

            Thanksgiving is also the start of holiday season cooking and eating, which usually lasts until that last drop of eggnog or festive food disappears.  To start the season off right, here are three choice international holiday recipes. The first is from the Sephardic Jewish tradition and two are among my own family-favorites, from the Italian tradition. I hope they will become as regular as the season is in your own home kitchen.

Local cookbook author and philanthropist, Poopa Dweck, recently finished

writing and editing her fourth cookbook, Aromas of Aleppo, which should be available

for mass distribution in August, 2007. Educated in the kitchen by her mother, the renowned Sephardic cook Sarine Kattan, Dweck wanted to capture the history, cuisine and customs of the Aleppian Jewish community and to preserve these centuries-old traditions for future generations.  She has done so in Aromas of Aleppo, with the help of many members of this close-knit community.  The recipes - a combination of Mediterranean and Levantine cuisines - are characterized by delightful blends of spices, herbs and ingredients – all of which are also infused with deep cultural meanings. 

Ejjeh Batata (potato fritter), similar to the potato latke of Ashkenazi cookery, where the plentiful use of oil symbolizes the miraculously burning temple lights of Hanukkah, is a simpler, lighter alternative, made without flour or matzo meal.  Consider this recipe for Hanukkah, although it can be enjoyed year-round, as Dweck suggests, “stuffed in flatbread with picked green pepper or fresh tomato.”

Ejjeh Batata – Potato Fritter

3 large potatoes, peeled and grated

5 eggs, beaten

1 onion, grated (about ½ cup)

1 teaspoon ground allspice

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 cup vegetable oil

1. Place the grated potatoes in a colander and press firmly against the perforated surface to extract water.  Alternatively, the potatoes can be gathered in cheesecloth and wrung-out several times.

2.  In a large bowl, combine the potatoes, eggs, onion, allspice and salt.  Mix well.

3.  Heat the vegetable oil in a skillet over medium heat.  When the oil sizzles upon contact with a droplet of water, drop 1 tablespoon of the batter into the pan.  Slightly flatten the mound of batter with the back of a spoon.  Continue adding as many mounds of the batter mixture as the skillet will allow.  Fry for two minutes or until golden, turning once.  Drain the fritters on paper towels.  Repeat this process with the remaining batter and if necessary, add more oil to fry the entire mixture.

Yield:  4 to 6 servings

My hands-down favorite - the Neapolitan delight - Struffoli, has been a Christmas tradition in my family for as long as I can remember. As children, my siblings and I were required to help in the preparation, much to our annoyance at the time. It has since become an annual family event in my own home. Although the cutting of the dough can be time consuming, the end result is far greater than the effort.  This recipe yields quite a large quantity - enough for sharing with those who are deemed “struffoli-worthy.” I think they taste better and better as the days go by.  But I guarantee you; they will disappear before you have a chance to prove me right.

  STRUFFOLI

6 eggs

4 cups flour

4 tbsp. butter, softened

2 tsp. baking powder

Pinch of salt

¼ cup sugar (scant)

2 shots of either Anisette or Limoncello

1 cup of honey, for the syrup (you may need a bit more)

4 tbsp. water

3 tbsp. sugar

Nonpareils (thousands & thousands)

Vegetable oil for frying – 1 cup

1. Combine eggs, butter, sugar and liquor.
2.  In a separate bowl, combine sifted flour, salt and baking powder, gradually adding to the egg mixture.  Dough will be sticky.
3.  Roll out 3-inch sized balls of dough on floured work surface into long strips. Cover remaining dough with tea towel, until ready to use.  Cut on a slight angle into small pieces, ½ inch in length, placing pieces on parchment or waxed paper. When all the dough has been cut, prepare for cooking:
4.  Heat oil in large sauté pan. Place enough cut dough in bottom of pan to cover. Using a slotted spoon, stir until lightly golden.  Place in colander to drain any excess oil.
5. When all struffoli are cooked, clean pan; place honey, sugar and water in pan, stir and bring to a boil, then reduce to simmer.  Place struffoli in pan, coating with the honey mixture. Remove with slotted spoon and arrange on plates to resemble a wreath while still hot. Sprinkle with nonpareils (thousands & thousands). 

Throughout the holiday season, appetizers and hors d’oeuvres are standard fare when celebrating with family and friends.  Try my quick and easy crostini recipe, while imbibing the bubbly on New Year’s Eve, or contemplating those dreaded resolutions.  

CROSTINI OF SAUSAGE & TALEGGIO

8 oz. highly flavored Italian sausage, such as Luganega, cheese & parsley, or broccoli rabe, removed from casing (Can be purchased in specialty stores)

7 oz. Taleggio cheese

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 long baguette or Italian loaf, cut in ½-inch thick, angled slices and toasted in the oven until golden

1.  Place sausage meat, cheese and pepper in bowl and mix thoroughly. 

2.  Spread each toast with a generous helping of the sausage and cheese mixture and transfer to a baking sheet. 

3.  Bake in a preheated 400° oven for five minutes or until the cheese has melted and the topping is bubbling.  Serve piping hot straight from the oven. 

Yield:  15 – 18 portions

            May your holidays be peaceful, full of good food and good cheer!