For centuries all mushrooms grew in the wild - lovers of the fungi had to forage for them in wooded areas and damp fields.  They learned through trial and error (being dead was a big error!) which were edible and which were not.  After identifying all that were edible, foragers started to hone in on those that had exceptional flavor, aroma, and texture - fungi such as morels, chanterelles, porcini, hen of the woods, and even the common field mushroom.  As everyone knows, most mushrooms are edible and delicious but, there are some that are highly poisonous.  Why, centuries ago, would anyone risk their life to consume wild mushrooms?  The obvious answer was that they were delicious!  Their texture was often meaty, their aroma earthy, and their flavor (sometimes delicate, sometimes assertive) was woodsy and often smoky.  Their addition to other foods such as meat, stews, eggs, and rice provided a depth of flavor to the dish and added variety to an otherwise often boring diet.  Mushrooms could even be dried and kept till needed for flavoring. 

          Today, the word mushroom refers to a wide range of fungi including the common white, or field, mushroom as well as exotic fungi such as morels, puffballs, and chanterelles.  Most mushrooms have a very high water content. Because fungi have no leaves, chlorophyll, flowers or roots, they must get their nutrients from other existing organic matter by attaching themselves to things such as wood or humus.  Most mushrooms grow in wooded areas. Specific types of mushrooms grow in close proximity to specific types of trees. For example, porcini can be found near deciduous trees while chanterelles are found near conifers.  Mushrooms reproduce by single cell spores that produce tiny filaments (called mycelia) which commercial growers use to propagate more mushrooms.  Kennett Square, PA is the mushroom capital of America and is where most of our cultivated mushrooms come from.  Thanks to advances in agriculture, gourmets and food enthusiasts can enjoy mushrooms year round.

More Common Commercial Varieties - CULTIVATED MUSHROOMS 

White mushrooms (field, cultivated, champignon de Paris) come in several sizes from button to large caps.  They have short, thick stems and thick, fleshy rounded caps.  They are available year round, have a very mild woodsy flavor and are quite versatile.  White mushrooms have a much milder, less distinct flavor than most other mushrooms and available at every food market in America.

Cremini Mushrooms are referred to either as small, young portobello mushrooms or as brown colored white mushrooms.  They resemble white mushrooms in shape and are similar in size to white button mushrooms but have a more intense flavor.  Prepare them as you would white mushrooms or mix the two together for a good dose of flavor for a little less money.   

Portobello mushrooms are full-grown cremini mushrooms.  Their stems are thick and their caps are wide and flat.  They have dark brown gills on the underside of the cap.  They are more flavorful than cremini and have a somewhat earthy flavor and aroma.  My favorite way to serve them is to remove the stem, lightly brush the caps with extra virgin olive oil, and either grill, broil, or bake them with the hollow side up to catch the juice. 

 Bluefoots (or blewits) are thick stemmed mushrooms with small beige caps and distinctly violet-blue colored stem bases.  They are very solid, dense mushrooms.  These mushrooms have a mild woodsy flavor. 

Shiitake mushrooms have firm, parasol shaped caps (which feel somewhat leathery) and thin, tough, flavorful stems.  Be sure to remove the stems from the caps and save them to add to meat or vegetable broth for flavoring.  Shiitake mushrooms have a rich, meaty, smoky flavor.  The caps may be sliced or cooked whole, depending upon the size. 

Oyster mushrooms (pleurotte) are fan-shaped and can be either grayish or brownish in color.  This multiple-fanned mushroom grows on oak logs and can grow to be 8 inches across.  They have a silky texture and a mild mushroomy flavor. 

Maitake mushrooms (Hen of the Woods, season - primarily autumn) are indigenous to the northern part of Japan, hence the name maitake.  They are also found in deciduous forests in China, Europe, Eastern Canada, and the Northeastern and Mid-Atlantic United States.  They are now being cultivated but production is unpredictable because the mushroom itself is unpredictable in its growth patterns.  These mushrooms have a cluster of fluffy, feathery fronds that are attached at a solid base.  The fronds are grayish or smoky brown with light colored undersides.  They have a distinctive, woodsy and slightly sweet aroma that makes me think of autumn.  The flesh is spongy and chewy. The flavor is rich, woodsy, and slightly nutty. 

More Luxurious Fungi - WILD MUSHROOMS  

Most chanterelles (girolle) (season: late summer, fall, early winter) - are golden in color, apricot or cinnamon scented, and somewhat lily-like in shape. They can vary wildly in size.  Neither the cap nor the stem are fleshy, a sign that they don't contain much water.  The lack of moisture makes them very easy to sauté.   When cooked, they have a mildly earthy taste that pairs well with chicken, game hens, veal, and eggs.  Chanterelles mixed with some heavy cream make a wonderful topping for pasta.             

Black Trumpet mushrooms are trumpet or funnel shaped and are either dark gray or blackish brown in color.  Their stems tend to be flattened and the funnel or trumpet part is thin fleshed.    Black Trumpets have a deep, rich, slightly smoky, tea flavor with hints of peat, bananas, and violets.  They can be gritty so cut off the base and quickly rinse the trumpets and stems under running water and then dry them. 

Hedgehog mushrooms (pied de mouton)(season: fall, early winter) - They have tiny spines on the bottom of their caps instead of gills.  They are tawny or pale orange in color and similar to chanterelles in texture and low moisture content.  Their flavor is similar to but less intense than chanterelles. 

Lobster mushrooms  are very firm and bright orange in color (just like the shell of the cooked lobster for which they are named).  The stems are quite thick and the unusually shaped and ruffled caps are very firm with fairly dry flesh.  They can be quite large (occasionally weighing up to a pound).  Lobster mushrooms have a mild taste with just a hint of the woods. Because they are so dry, they do best when cooked in some fat and moisture, such as broth or cream.

Morels (season: spring, early summer, occasionally in fall) - They have distinctive cone shaped caps that have a honeycombed sponge-like surface and are hollow inside. They have a meaty texture and a deep, earthy flavor that is somewhat nutty.  The honeycombed flesh is perfect for holding and absorbing creamy sauces as well as imparting its nutty, slightly smoky, mildly earthy flavor to the sauce.   Morels should not be eaten raw. 

Porcini (Boletus, Cèpe, cep) (season: fall, but sometimes in the spring) - They can be quite large, with thick stems and fat, fleshy caps.  They have a high water content and will shrink to about half their size when cooked.  They have a wonderfully meaty texture and a deep, meaty, smoky flavor. 

When Fresh Are Hard To Find, Turn To - DRIED MUSHROOMS -

As early man found out, most mushrooms can be dried and stored until needed.  Today dried morels, porcini, shiitakes, and chanterelles are available commercially.  When reconstituted, dried mushrooms have the same flavor as fresh.  To reconstitute morels, porcini, and chanterelles simply soak them half covered in warm water until they are plump and soft.  Turn them often during the soaking process so they rehydrate evenly.  Dried shiitake can take up to 5 hours in warm water to rehydrate.  The other alternative is to soak them barely covered by boiling water for about 30 minutes.  Remove the mushrooms from the bowl with a fork to keep any grit in the bowl.  After the mushrooms are plump and soft, squeeze them to remove the excess water.  Strain the soaking liquid to remove any grit.  The mushroom water may be used in the dish you are preparing or frozen and added to the next pot of stock or mushroom soup you are making. Note: Dried mushrooms weigh between ¾ and 1½ ounces per cup.     

SELECTING, STORING, AND PREPARING MUSHROOMS

Always look for mushrooms that are firm and dry to the touch.  White and cremini mushrooms are freshest when the caps are closed and you can't see the gills.  They should have a fairly uniform color. Look for evidence of insect damage in wild mushrooms.  In particular, insects like the stems of porcini mushrooms and the honeycombed flesh of morels so be sure to check for evidence of infestation.  Mushrooms should be used within a couple of days of being purchased.  Store the unwashed mushrooms in paper bags in the refrigerator (plastic bags will cause the mushrooms to become damp and slimy).  Be particularly careful to store oyster mushrooms in paper.  Mushrooms absorb water easily so, if possible, just wipe them with a damp cloth or mushroom brush.  If they must be washed, quickly rinse them under running water and then gently dry them. 

Mushroom caps do not need to be peeled but the ends of the stems should be trimmed.  Remember to avoid eating the stems of shiitakes.  Mushrooms can be cooked whole, halved, quartered or sliced.  If you are cooking mushrooms of different sizes at the same time, you should cut them up so they are similar sized pieces for even cooking.  When slicing mushrooms, make sure the slices are fairly thick so they will keep their shape when cooked.  Because most mushrooms contain so much water, they shrink a lot when cooked.  Note: One pound of mushrooms will serve 3 people and 1½ plenty for 4.  

Mushrooms can be sautéed, braised, broiled, baked, and grilled.  They can be served alone or with other vegetables, meats, pasta, or rice. Mushrooms pair well with the following seasonings: parsley, rosemary, tarragon, marjoram, thyme, garlic, shallots, and black pepper. Sauté mushrooms in either extra virgin olive oil or butter or a combination of the two.  Add a little lemon juice, balsamic vinegar, Madeira, marsala, dry port, or sherry to the finished dish for extra flavor.  If you haven't experimented with many types of mushrooms, try mixing a few of the wild ones with white or cremini mushrooms so you get used to the wonderful earthy flavor.  Because the wild ones have to be hand gathered, they are expensive.  Mixing some of the expensive types with the white ones gives the flavor of the wild ones for less money.  The only time I don't mix is when I splurge and buy porcini.  Then I cook the porcini simply and just enjoy the treat! 

Happy eating!
Sallie Smith Food Specialist at Sickles Market in Little Silver, NJ

www.sicklesmarket.com