Sometimes we take some of our oldest landmarks for granted – especially if you’re a restaurant reviewer - always trying to keep up with the latest openings, all too many of which become the latest closings before the newsprint is dry. 

But our recent visit to Klein’s – a family run business that’s been operating in the same spot for a mind-bending 75 years - made us reflect on what it takes to have a run like this…And it’s no small achievement. Here’s what we concluded:

            Klein’s abides by “the first rule of running a restaurant” – which, as so many restauranteurs forget, to their ultimate peril, is “serve good food, in generous portions, and people will come.”

            Being friendly is important too…and the cute young kids who mostly staff the place certainly are – which helps you fondly overlook the occasional small delays and minor flubs in this incredibly busy place…and remember when YOU were young.

            Klein’s waterfront location is another major plus – especially to us locals, and to anyone else who realizes how relaxing it is to dine where you can see the water. And here, in addition to water, you get to watch a constant parade of fishing boats, the drawbridge going up and down, and for added interest, see and hear the train tooting and chugging by. My little granddaughter was thrilled to pieces…which reminds me, Klein’s is kid-friendly – another often overlooked plus.

            Keeping up with trends is a good thing too, if you’re going to make it to 75+ in today’s fast-changing world…So Klein’s got sushi – made by folks who look-like, cook-like and dress like real sushi chefs – and who make it good too. It also has a long and spiffy list of trendy drinks; incredibly important to keep their big younger crowd coming, and putting up with – or mostly ignoring, I’d say – family groups and older folks like me, and helping to make it a “happening place.” We were also favorably impressed with the wine list – nothing terribly trendy, mind you, but a good selection of reasonable wines, very reasonably marked up, which always rates an A+. (Klein’s just got its liquor license in May, which makes its longevity seem even more remarkable).

            What it all adds up to is “ really good value for your money.” Our group started with Spider Roll, Oyster Roll and “Rock Roll” - all fresh-made, with the fried seafood middlin’s hot from the fryer; a rare thing indeed. The nine-piece sashimi plate was also good – and a good buy too at $10.95. Three of us went on to fried dinners, since it’s softshell crab season, which goes by too fast and should NEVER be missed. YUM! Grandpa had a heaping plate of fried shrimp and scallops, with crispy-on-the outside, creamy-on-the inside waffle-fries. Our two big sushi-eaters went on to a pound of King Crab legs, at the day’s market price of $36.95…and worth every penny! Nothing at all like those over-salty, over-cooked, slightly shriveled and hard to extract legs you see on sale, or at those “all you can eat” joints…These were awesome!

            Get on down to Klein’s we advise, while Summer’s sizzling and you can eat outside if you have a mind to. Klein’s is located at River Road and Main Street in Belmar.