If you are someone who appreciates the best the mighty grape has to offer, you will probably agree that what is in your glass is ultimately more important than what is on the bottle. Sure, big name wine labels may impart a certain amount of prestige and refinement, but should you go for the ‘trophy label’?  We set out to find the answer in one of the world’s most renowned wine regions.

The Tasting

            Margaux is one of the most celebrated appellations within the illustrious wine region of Bordeaux, France.  Known for their enticingly complex fragrance and unrivaled elegance, Margaux wines are often said to posses a certain “femininity.”  Margaux is also home to one of the oldest and most famous wines in the world, Chateau Margaux.  It is one of only five wines in Bordeaux that have the privilege of being classified as a Premier Cru or “first growth,” meaning the wine is at the very top of its class.

            Chateau Margaux, the classic representation of Margaux, was our “trophy label” and the benchmark against which we compared all the other wines in our tasting.  In top vintages, Chateau Margaux is characterized by complex aromas and flavors redolent of black currant, violet, and spices and a silky mouthfeel.  The wine also typically has a lengthy finish characterized by those same flavors lingering in your mouth long after the wine has been swallowed.

            We selected five wines in total for our journey through Margaux. Chateau Margaux —the piece de resistance— was joined by two mid-priced Margaux wines, Pavillon Rouge de Chateau Margaux and Rauzan Segla, and two lower-priced Margaux wines,  Prieure-Lichine and La Tour de Mons.  The wines were all from the 1999 vintage. 1999 is an underrated vintage in Bordeaux, overshadowed by the highly lauded and extraordinary 2000 vintage.  The 1999 vintage is well above average and has one of the best price-to-performance ratios among recent vintages. The really good news for impatient Bordeaux lovers everywhere is that the wines of 1999 are easy to find and ready to drink now.

The Wines

            As a coincidental nod to its femininity, Chateau Margaux has been owned and operated by a woman, Corinne Mentzelopoulus, since 1983.  The wine has scored consistently high under her leadership.  The 1999 is a blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the five grapes that make up the classic Bordeaux blend (Malbec, which is sometimes included in the blend, is playing a diminishing role in Bordeaux wines). 

            Pavillon Rouge de Chateau Margaux is what is referred to as the ‘second label’ of Chateau Margaux.  A second label is a wine produced from the same winery, or Chateau, from grapes that are not used in the primary wine. Typically, second label wines are produced from younger vines or inferior vineyard plots. Although second label wines are generally not made from the highest quality grapes, they can be excellent alternatives. 

            Classified as a second-growth in Bordeaux is Chateau Rauzan-Ségla.  When Bordeaux wines were classified in 1855, 61 wines were organized into five categories according to their market value.  The best wines were classified as first-growths, followed by second to fifth-growths.  Chateau Rauzan-Ségla had been underachieving for years and perhaps did not warrant its second-growth status, but the winery turned things around in 1983 with improvements to the vineyard and the grape selection.

            Chateau Prieure-Lichine is a fourth-growth Bordeaux. The Chateau has a somewhat unique history in that the late owner, Alexis Lichine, was a Russian immigrant who became an American citizen.  He eventually made his way to Bordeaux and purchased the fourth-growth Prieure-Cantenac and quite brazenly added his name to the label to make it Chateau Prieure-Lichine.  Recently, Prieure-Lichine brought on a famous wine consultant in the hopes of making a richer wine. 

            Classified as a Cru Bourgeois Superior is Chateau La Tour de Mons. Thousands of Chateau were excluded when Bordeaux wines were originally classified in 1855. The Cru Bourgeois category was created to showcase the “best of the rest” and wine labeled as such can represent good quality at value prices.

            Before You Uncork That Bottle, A Word About Our Ratings

            We rate wines on a modified version of the 100-point rating scale that is undoubtedly familiar to many of you.  We have also created a Tier system within that 100-point scale to further help the consumer.  This Tier System consists of a First Tier (classic wines) through a Fifth Tier (generic wines). We feel that wines within each Tier should be considered of equal quality regardless of the numeric score as different people have different palates and tastes. Additionally, because a wine’s flavors and tastes are based largely on personal experiences and frame of reference, we feel it important for the consumer to understand that we believe a great wine is made such by two key elements: balance and complexity. Balance is the harmony among the wine’s components of fruit, tannin, acidity and alcohol. A complex wine is one with multiple layers and degrees of aroma and flavor.  We focused on these two elements when rating the wines in this tasting. 

Tasting Notes

First Tier (95 – 100 Point Wines)

            We did not find a wine that was expressive enough, or that adequately demonstrated the classic Margaux characteristics, to merit a First Tier ranking.

Second Tier (90 – 94 Point Wines)

            1999 Chateau Margaux – A nicely structured and elegant wine.  At $150+ retail, Chateau Margaux is six times more expensive than the Prieure-Lichine but not six times as charming. 94 Points. (Best Expression of the Tasting)

            The Chateau Margaux is a deep ruby red colored wine with a classically fragrant and powerful nose of red berries, cedar, grilled nuts, sweet fruit, lavender and vanilla.  The red berries follow through on the palate along with stones, sour cherry and multiple layers of fruit and spice.  The wine’s medium acidity balances nicely with the silky tannins. This is a medium-bodied wine with a complexity that shows quality winemaking. Not big or powerful, but nicely structured and enjoyable. It will benefit from additional aging to show its true potential and should reach the First Tier.  Drink decanted now or hold through 2015.

            1999 Chateau Prieure-Lichine – A surprise Second Tier ranking and a terrific value at $24 retail. 91 Points. (Best Value of the Tasting)

            The Prieure-Lichine exhibits a pronounced nose of cherry, vanilla, violet, peppermint and hints of chocolate and mocha.  The wine is medium to full-bodied and displays a bit of that classic Margaux combination of power and finesse. The palate reveals cherry, vanilla and mint, layered with notes of smokiness.  This is a wine with good structure, medium acidity and balanced tannins. It showed much more complexity than we expected at this price level and has benefited from its bottle age. Drink now or over the next few years.

            1999 Chateau Rauzan-Ségla – This wine’s mouthwatering acidity insures its status as a great food wine and affords the Rauzan a Second Tier ranking. Worth the $45 retail, it is the perfect complement to a good, hearty meal. 91 Points.

            The Chateau Rauzan-Ségla displays cherry cola and earth with hints of cedar and violet. The almost creamy palate is filled with cherry and chocolate flavors as well as notes of coffee. The medium-high acidity takes some time to balance out against the smooth tannins but the wine exhibits the weight and power characteristics of great Margaux. Drink now or over the next few years.

Third Tier (85-89 Point Wines)

            1999 Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux – A good cocktail wine but not a value at $55 retail. The wine’s one-dimensional character holds it back from the higher tiers. 88 Points.

            The Pavillon Rouge exhibits an attack of black currant and blueberry along with vanilla and tobacco notes. Its black currant aroma overpowers, however, rendering it less complex than the other wines in the tasting. Darker fruit and black currant show through on the palate with chocolate covered cherries on the finish.  There are lingering tannins, but they are a little gritty in this medium-bodied wine.  This is a nice wine, but more rustic and less well-pulled together than the Chateau Margaux. Drink now through 2008.

Fourth Tier (80-84 Points)

            Chateau La Tour de Mons – This wine has enough going on once it opens up to keep it out the fifth tier cellar.  81 Points.

            The La Tour de Mons has heat and alcohol coming right off the nose, which is hiding the fruit. Some dark berries show through in the aroma and on the palate as the wine opens up. Give it some time and it showcases some interesting tannins and acid but it is not well knit together.  This is a rustic and rough wine and an excellent example of a wine that does not exhibit the all-important elements of balance and complexity.  Drink now — but at $19 retail, you should spend that extra $5 and get the Prieure-Lichine.

Fifth Tier (79 Points and Below)

            Thankfully, none of the wines fell into this category, which is reserved for generic, heavily manufactured bottles.

To Save or To Splurge

            We found in our tasting that you can experience the style of Margaux without spending a fortune and stepping up to the ‘trophy label.’ After all, the delectable Prieure-Lichine exhibited shades of the Margaux terrior for one-sixth the price.  The Rauzan-Segla enticed out palates by mimicking the benchmark characteristics of the region.  Overall, the journey through Margaux was an inspiring one and we encourage you to uncork a few bottles and taste for yourself.  Perhaps then, if you enjoy the style — and find yourself with a little extra cash in your wallet — you’ll decide to splurge for the classic.