| Thanksgiving and Holiday Wine Pairings |
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By Patrick Bautista, Certified Sommelier and General Manager for Ocean Wine and Spirits This holiday season, I’m revamping the review format a little bit to make it more appropriate for wine pairings. The wines are grouped according to their weight and fit to a Thanksgiving or special holiday dinner course. The wines were chosen for their versatility as well for their outstanding value. Happy holidays!
For Appetizers: Riondo Prosecco NV ($12 SRP) – This is the perfect aperitif! Light-straw in color; delicate and well-defined mousse. Aromas of apricot and lemon. Light, well-balanced flavors of citrus, honeysuckle and apples. Burgans Albarino Rias Baixas 05 ($12 SRP) – Another Eric Solomon project made by Bodegas Martin Codax. A well-balanced white wine that can be paired with a wide variety of appetizers. Light golden yellow. Well-defined aromas of ripe fruits, coupled with distinct minerality. The flavors follow through with equal intensity displaying more melon, grapefruit and orange notes.
For Entrees: Domaine du Closel Savennieres Clos Papillon 04 ($25 SRP) – From the exceptional terroir of Clos Papillon vineyard - Domaine des Baumard also bottles a cuvee from this vineyard, but a tad pricier. A 100% Chenin Blanc from France’s Loire Valley, this racy white is also a mineral powerhouse. Yellow-straw in color. Intense aromas of jasmine, spice, and tropical fruit. Complex flavors of green apple, apricot, and musk melon. The finish is compelling with pronounced minerality and slight traces of almond flavor which is typical of well-made chenin blancs. De Bertu Rocca Chardonnay Langhe 04 ($20 SRP) - This is an unoaked chardonnay from the Barbaresco region of Piedmont. It is a medium-bodied chardonnay with enough heft (provided by its excellent palate-cleansing minerality and acidity) to match a wide range of typically rich Thanksgiving fare. Light straw in color. Typical chardonnay nose of apples and lemon. Clean flavors of peach, apple, and figs. Good finish displaying freshness and concentration. Oliver Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc 'Les Setilles' 2005 ($20 SRP) – Let’s see, juice from premier cru villages of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, plus the talent behind the winery Robert Parker called, ‘… a name to be considered seriously’, plus a price at a third of most premier crus – all the reasons why this cuvee should be in every table this Thanksgiving! Straw yellow in color. With 2005, producing good fruit maturity, the nose of this medium bodied chardonnay exhibits exotic fruit aromas and white flowers. The front palate is mainly nectarine, apples, and peaches. Balancing acidity and flint appears on the finish. Four Graces Pinot Noir Willamette 03 ($25 SRP) – Four Graces is a project that was put together by the Black Family following the typical California cult wine business plan – start with tons of money; buy the best vineyards one can find; hire the current hottest winemaker; and finally, hope that the market - and more importantly, the wine critics - like your wine. The confluence of factors did come together for this project. The wines produced by Four Graces rival some of the older, premier Willamette winemakers. The color is garnet red. The aroma is typical pinot noir exhibiting bright cherry fruit and violet flowers. Flavors are ripe strawberry, raspberry, and surprisingly a little bit of plums (may be a character of the vintage?). Good tactile character with density above an average well-made Oregon pinot noir. Chateau du Petit Puch Graves de Vayres 03 ($25 estimated) – Another find of the year, Petit Puch is made with 80% merlot and 20% cabernet sauvignon. This is an intensely flavored red wine, with a mouth feel that is outstanding – fruit flavors, tannins, minerals, and acidity were all in synch. Dark brick red in color. Nose is dominated intensely by black currants and plums. Front palate is all red berries and violets - more merlot in character, but the finish is all cabernet – mint, tobacco, and refined tannins. Toasty oak appears at the long finish as well. For Dessert: Markus Molitor Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 03 - Grown from 80-100 year old Riesling vines of the Mosel Valley, a highly concentrated and full-bodied Auslese that exhibits the power of the 2003 vintage. However powerful this wine may be, to fans of classic Mosel wines, this Riesling will not disappoint you. Auslese is the third level in ‘sweetness’ according to German Riesling classification. Pale yellow-gold in color. Aromas of ripe pear, pineapple, peach, and lemon curd. Flavors mirror the aroma, but with more intensity, and honeyed character. Despite the seeming sweetness, there is balancing acidity that makes the wine not cloying at all. Quinta do Infantado Ruby Port NV ($15 SRP)– Quinta do Infantado is a rarity in port winemaking. Their products are all estate-bottled (meaning grapes used to make wines are grown from the winery’s own vineyard), nothing is bought from farmers’ coops – which is typically the source for the majority of ports produced. The color is saturated deep ruby. Aroma of black plum, cassis, and anise. Flavors are mainly dark berries, chocolate and roasted coffee. Excellent flavor delineation and The Rare Wine Co. New York Malmsey (Madeira) NV ($45 SRP) - Bottled for The Rare Wine Company (of Sonoma, California) by Vinhos Barbeito. The New York Malmsey is one of the American Seaport Historic Series produced by The Rare Wine Company. Boston Bual and Charleston Sercial are the other two. Malmsey is one of the four noble Madeira grape varieties, and usually among the sweetest, the others are Sercial, Verdelho, and Bual. Color is deep tawny. The nose is classic malmsey Madeira with caramel and toffee. On the palate, it shows more chocolate and nutty character. Very rich finish.
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